Let’s face it. Most of us have developed a fast-food mentality. Even when we are not eating at one of Richmond’s hundreds of familiar burger, sub or chicken chains, we have become hard-wired to anticipate that our food will appear in a matter of minutes.
 
So we go to the more upscale sit-down restaurants with that expectation. And the majority—in the interests of turning the tables over quickly to serve more diners—willingly oblige. Thus, it is not unusual for a party of four to be in and out of their favorite eatery in about an hour—even when ordering drinks, appetizers and dessert!
 
Thankfully, a handful of Richmond establishments believe in bucking the trend and letting you take your time.
 
Let us not confuse leisurely service with slow, indifferent service, which can irk even the most forbearing patron. We mean restaurateurs who encourage—or at least gracefully tolerate—an unhurried visit. Places where the courses are well paced, allowing you to converse, enjoy your wine or just relax before tackling the next dish.
 
We recently visited four restaurants which operate at a slower pace, allowing a richer dining experience.
 
 
Hondo’s   4024 Cox Rd., Glen Allen   968-4323
As one of Richmond’s few locally owned, high-end steak houses, Hondo’s, at the Shops at Innsbrook, has always catered to the business diner. And why not? If you want to impress your client and talk business in an elegant, subdued atmosphere, you can’t do much better. But “business clientele” suggests brisk, efficient service—which is not necessarily the case for the casual diner at Hondo’s.
 
As managing partner Morris Belford noted, the quality of the food (which is uniformly excellent) must be combined with a sense of timing to create an “outstanding customer experience.” Belford has instructed his staff that the pace of service should be the same no matter when the guests arrive—“even if it’s one minute before closing.”
 
Because Hondo’s chefs don’t “parcook” many items, almost every menu offering is made to order, which automatically dictates a slower tempo. Belford estimated that a party of two can expect their dinner to take up to two hours, while a larger group might be at their table for up to three hours—or maybe the entire evening.
 
What if Hondo’s needs the table for another party that has a reservation? Assuming the current diners have finished their dinner, Belford will diplomatically invite them to enjoy an after-dinner drink at the bar. “Our ultimate goal is to take care of the guests,” he concluded.
 
 
Edible Garden 12506 River Rd., Goochland 784-2011
A converted cottage on River Road in Goochland used to house a gift shop and tea room known as the English Garden. In 2005, new owners Molly Harris and Lisa Goldstein created a full-service restaurant called Edible Garden.
 
Its motto is “celebrating the simple pleasures of food,” and as such, Edible Garden has embraced the burgeoning “Slow Food” movement.
 
This term does not mean that the food is served slowly. Slow Food was started as a response to the proliferation of fast food restaurants all over the world, with their reliance on manufactured or chemically enhanced food. In keeping with the mission of Slow Food, Edible Garden supports sustainable agriculture by serving organically grown food purchased from local farmers.
 
“It’s important to count your food miles,” explained Harris, referring to the distance that food travels from farm to plate. She offers customers a brochure listing all the family-owned specialty farms where they procure their menu items. In addition, many seasonal herbs and vegetables come from the Edible Garden’s own back yard.
 
Diners can enjoy lunch or dinner (by reservation) either indoors or, weather permitting, outdoors behind the cottage, which affords splendid rural views. “People love to come and linger in the garden,” observed Harris.
 
Both menus are ambitious and change regularly to capitalize on what is currently fresh and available. Everything is cooked to order and, as you would expect, all sauces, dressings and desserts are made from scratch. A particular delight is the dessert case, where at least four home-baked layer cakes are always on view. Each serving is lovingly plated with a garnish of fresh whipped cream and mint.
 
Harris noted that most of their tables are set for two or four patrons, making Edible Garden ideal for a romantic dinner.
 
Emilio’s 1847 W. Broad St., Richmond 359-1224
When a restaurant’s menu lists its signature dish with the request, “Please allow 45 minutes preparation time,” you know this is an establishment that is not going to whisk you out the door!
 
Such is the case at Emilio’s, Richmond’s only authentic full-service Spanish restaurant, which has been a Broad Street fixture for four years, and which recently opened a Southside branch in Woodlake Commons. The dish in question is, of course, Paella Valenciana, the famous rice-based composition that also contains vegetables, chicken and/or seafood. (Emilio’s offers four different versions, as well as Fideua, which is a similar pasta-based dish.)
 
As assistant manager Jonathan Meadows explained during a recent visit, the 45-minute cooking time “allows the rice to absorb each ingredient as it is added in sequence to the paella pan.” Managing partner Chad Stambaugh added that for this dish, a special imported Spanish rice known as calaspari is used because of its slow-absorbing properties. Stambaugh said that frequently diners will enjoy appetizers and drinks while the paella is cooking so that the timing is seamless. 
 
If paella or fideua are not to your liking, Emilio’s menu offers a host of other meat, poultry and fish dishes prepared with a true Spanish flair.
 
Of course, the best way to begin your dining experience is with a pitcher of white or red Sangria and one or more of the two dozen tapas, or Spanish-style hors d’oeuvres. In fact, many diners in search of lighter fare will order a variety of tapas in lieu of an entree just to sample a wider variety of menu items.
 
Whatever your selections, the staff of Emilio’s will happily let you enjoy them at a leisurely pace. After all, Meadows said, there is a “Spanish tradition of taking your time.”
 
Cuppa Tea Company 1 N. Morris St., Richmond 254-8322
Afternoon tea is such a civilized ritual that one could not imagine the server hovering over patrons, waiting for them to leave. And indeed, the 300-year-old custom of afternoon tea has been revived with all its gentility at Cuppa Tea Company, a relatively new enterprise on Morris Street.
 
Owners Lurline and Allan Wagner offer a variety of “tea services,” including traditional Chinese and Japanese teas, Cream tea, Dessert tea and Light Luncheon Tea.
 
The latter comprises a lovely array of delicate tea sandwiches and scones artfully presented on a two-tiered plate. Samples of the available teas are brought to the table in a box, allowing diners to examine and sniff the loose tea leaves. (No tea bags here!) Both iced and hot teas are brewed to order.
 
Afternoon tea, for which Wagner suggests allowing two hours, is even more elaborate. It features the same mini-sandwiches and scones served at lunch, along with a third tier of delectable pastries. Unlimited servings of two different types of tea are included. Reservations are suggested for the two seatings for afternoon tea (12 and 3 p.m.), but once you are there, the Wagners encourage you to stay as long as you like.
 
Allan recounted how a group of guests had recently spent the better part of the afternoon at their table—probably because the serene atmosphere is so conducive to conversation. “We’re not in any rush, and we don’t want you to be either,” he said.
 
Cuppa Tea Co. has two distinct rooms where visitors can relax with their chosen libation. One is decorated in Oriental style, while the other has decidedly Victorian flourishes. Various “wall words” embody the Wagners’ philosophy about enjoying tea: “Tea with friends is an oasis of peace in a busy world,” says one, while another reminds you to “Enjoy life sip by sip, not gulp by gulp.”