

Put Pesto to the Test Variations Please Many Palates
One of the most remarkable culinary trends over the past decade has been the explosive growth of all kinds of international condiments, including salsas, chutneys, flavored mustards and pestos. At one time, pesto was narrowly defined as a paste (hence the name) of fresh basil leaves, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil and parmesan. But no more.
Now pestos can be made using other vegetables, as well as other herbs (either along with or instead of basil). Although olive oil and garlic are usually included, walnuts can replace the pine nuts, and frequently no grated cheese is added.
What most pestos do have in common is that they are usually tossed with pasta, but many adventurous cooks have discovered that they also make a sensational topping for grilled meats and fish.
Summer presents the ideal opportunity to experiment with various types of pestos since fresh veggies and herbs are readily available, and since light pasta dinners are so appropriate for warm-weather dining. Here’s a quartet of innovative pesto recipes for you to sample. If you prefer to use the pesto in smaller batches, the leftovers can be frozen.
Parsley-Basil Pesto
If you find the taste of classic basil pesto to be too strong, then you’ll like this version, which owes its milder flavor to the parsley while retaining the key elements of a traditional pesto.
1 cup packed fresh basil leaves 1 cup packed Italian (flat leaf) parsley leaves 5 garlic cloves 1 cup olive oil ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt to taste
In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, combine the first 3 ingredients and process until finely chopped. With the motor running, add the oil through the feed tube in a slow, steady stream until combined. Add the parmesan and salt to taste until blended. To serve, toss with 1 pound cooked and drained linguine that has been tossed with a little olive oil. Serves 4.
Broccoli Pesto
Fans of one of our healthiest vegetables will especially appreciate this treatment.
1 bunch broccoli ½ cup pine nuts 2 garlic cloves, minced ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese ½ cup olive oil ½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
Remove the flowerets from the broccoli stalks. Reserve the stalks for another use (such as soups or casseroles). Cook the flowerets in boiling salted water until very tender—about 5 minutes. Drain, reserving ¼ cup of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, in a small nonstick skillet, cook the pine nuts and garlic over medium-low heat until pale golden. place the broccoli, pine nuts, garlic, reserved cooking liquid, parmesan and olive oil in the container of a food processor and process until smooth. Add the salt and process again. Taste and correct the seasoning. Makes enough to serve with 1 pound of pasta.
Roasted Tomato Pesto
Former New York Times food columnist Molly O’Neill has also authored several popular cookbooks, including “A Well Seasoned Appetite” from which this innovative recipe was adapted. It is designed for use with plum tomatoes which are currently available in glorious profusion.
14 plum tomatoes, trimmed and halved lengthwise 4 teaspoons olive oil, divided 1 teaspoon salt, divided freshly ground pepper to taste 3 cups canned tomato juice ¼ cup slivered blanched almonds, toasted 2 tablespoons fresh breadcrumbs 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
Several hours or the day before serving, roast the tomatoes: with a pastry brush, lightly coat the skin side of tomatoes using half of the olive oil. place, skin side down, on a large spray-coated baking sheet and sprinkle with half the salt, along with pepper to taste. Bake in a 200-degree oven until they shrink to about one-quarter of their original size; they should be soft and juicy. This will take 4 to 6 hours. Let cool on the baking sheet. Meanwhile, strain the tomato juice through a sieve lined with a paper towel over a medium bowl, stirring occasionally. This will take about 1½ hours, and you will have about 2/3 cup of juice in the bowl to use for the pesto. Combine the tomatoes, reduced tomato juice, the remaining olive oil and the next 4 ingredients in the container of a food processor, and process until smooth, scraping sides of container as needed. Add the remaining salt and pepper to taste. This goes well with pasta or grilled chicken. Makes about 1½ cups.
Roasted Red Pepper Pasta
This low-fat selection can have either an Italian or a southwestern accent, depending on whether you use basil or cilantro leaves.
4 red bell peppers 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or cilantro leaves 3 tablespoons chicken broth 2 tablespoons olive oil ¼ cup white wine vinegar 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 tablespoon each freshly squeezed lime and orange juice Pinch of cayenne pepper ¼ teaspoon salt
To roast the peppers, place them on a foil-lined baking sheet and broil 6 inches from the heat source, turning often, until charred on all sides. Remove from the oven and place in a paper bag until cool enough to handle. peel away the charred skin, cut the peppers open, and remove the ribs and seeds. place the peppers in the container of a food processor with the remaining ingredients and process until smooth. Toss with ½ pound cooked and drained angel hair pasta; serve at room temperature or chilled. Serves 2 to 3 as a main dish, 4 to 6 as a side dish.
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