Cornmeal- An
American Original
Virtually every grain we cook with today was discovered thousands of years ago in Asia, Asia Minor, or Africa. The lone exception is corn, which originated in the New World long before Columbus arrived. For centuries, various Native American tribes had been harvesting a grain called maize; when the kernels were ground, the result was cornmeal.
Not surprisingly, cornmeal has always been a staple of Latin American cuisine. As the Southwest was settled by both Indians and Mexicans, they continued using cornmeal in diverse ways. By the nineteenth century, cooks in other parts of the U.S. began including this ubiquitous grain in their cooking, as evidenced by such regional favorites as Johnny-cakes, hush puppies, Indian pudding, and plain old cornbread and corn muffins.
Commercially packaged cornmeal is not as nutritious as the stone-ground variety, but both are a good source of complex carbohydrates, niacin, magnesium. and potassium. Southern cooks have traditionally favored white cornmeal; from a cooking perspective there is not much difference between white and yellow (except that the latter contains more beta carotene). Accordingly, the recipes offered below can be fixed with either kind and will yield equally satisfying results.
Jalapeño Cornbread
This simple, lively treatment has an almost pudding-like texture. It partners beautifully with soups, stews, salads, and, of course, chili. If the jalapeños are too hot for your liking, replace them with milder canned chilies.
3½ cups cornmeal
2½ cups milk
½ cup canola oil
3 eggs
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 cup cream-style corn
1½ cups grated Monterey Jack or Cheddar cheese
1 (4-ounce) can chopped jalapeño
peppers, drained
In a large bowl, combine the first three ingredients. Beat the eggs in a small bowl; add to the cornmeal mixture along with the onion, corn, and cheese. Rinse the peppers in cold water, drain on paper towels, chop finely, and add to the batter. Pour into a greased 9-by-13-inch baking pan and bake at 400 degrees 45 minutes, or until a knife inserted in center comes out clean. Serves 12 to 15.
Light Cornbread
Most cornbread recipes yield a coarse, crumbly product, but this version, which includes buttermilk and yeast, results in a lighter texture. In true Southern fashion, it is baked in a cast-iron skillet.
¼ cup butter
2 cups cornmeal
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 package dry yeast
2½ cups lukewarm buttermilk
Place the butter in a 9- or 10-inch cast-iron skillet (or other skillet with ovenproof handle); melt over low heat, turning the skillet to coat its sides with melted butter. Remove from the heat. In a medium bowl, combine the dry ingredients. Stir in the buttermilk until well blended. Spoon into the skillet, cover loosely, and let rise in a warm place until almost double in bulk. Bake, uncovered, at 350 degrees thirty minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Spread additional butter on top, if desired; serve hot, cut in wedges. Serves 8 to 10.
Polenta
Consisting of three basic ingredients, polenta is one of Italy’s national dishes. Its origins date back to the Roman Empire, when soldiers were sustained by a gruel-like mixture made with millet known as pulmentum. After Columbus introduced Italy to corn (along with other New World treasures), polenta began to be made with cornmeal.
Served hot, polenta has the consistency of mashed potatoes, and it’s often topped with gravy, marinara sauce, or butter. When spread in a baking dish and allowed to cool, the mixture hardens to an unleavened cake. As such, it can be baked with butter and Parmesan or used in a variety of other recipes. On its own, polenta is low in calories and cholesterol.
6 cups water
1½ teaspoons salt
1½ cups cornmeal
In a large, heavy saucepan, bring the water and salt to rolling boil. Slowly add the cornmeal, stirring constantly with a wire whisk. The mixture will get very thick. Reduce heat and cook, uncovered, twenty minutes, stirring frequently. Polenta can now be served hot as a side dish with gravy or sauce. It can also be spread in a well-buttered baking dish and chilled. After the mixture hardens, cut into squares or wedges and reheat in 350-degree oven with butter and Parmesan cheese, if desired. Serves 6 to 8.
Lemon-Cornmeal Shortbread Cookies
These delicately perfumed cookies make a lovely accompaniment to afternoon tea or alongside lemon sherbet.
1½ cups flour
1/3 cup cornmeal
¼ cup cornstarch
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 cup sifted confectioner’s sugar
½ teaspoon lemon extract
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
In a four-cup measure, whisk together the first five ingredients. In a medium bowl, with the mixer on medium, cream the butter until light. Beat in the sugar until smooth. Add the lemon extract, zest, and juice. At low speed, add the flour mixture until combined. Turn the mixture out onto a floured surface and knead to form a soft dough. Shape into balls about 1½ inches in diameter; place two inches apart on ungreased cookie sheets. With a fork, flatten each ball in crisscross fashion. Bake in a 325-degree oven for 15 to 17 minutes, or until set, switching position of cookie sheets halfway through baking. Cool on wire racks. Makes three dozen.
